After that we ended up getting lost and walking across the river to see some residential Florence and some neat (and not so neat) churches. The Florentines do like their domes and they love to paint murals in the domes. Chiesa di San Frediano in Cestello had some really cool 3-D paintings on the ceiling that gave the illusion of more galleries and windows higher up. The Ponte Vecchio was surprising because it’s hard to tell you’re on a bridge. There are some many shops along the sides and it’s covered over on the top as well, so the only place you can see the Arno River is in the very middle. It was decorated for Christmas and they had American Christmas music playing and it felt very festive. In the middle there’s a statue and the fence around the statue is covered in padlocks. The custom, though it seems that only tourists really partake which is fitting, is that you bring your loved one to the bridge lock the lock and throw the key into the Arno as a sign of your undying love. Funnily enough, there are some combination locks as well… I suppose if you break up at least you can come get your padlock back?
We saw Michelangelo’s David first thing this morning which was a blessing as there were no lines when we got there and almost no one in the museum. He’s much larger in person (and smaller in other ways if you catch my drift) but Kim and I discussed how he was pretty close to the perfect man… he probably cooks well, likes to cuddle, isn’t afraid of commitment, and likes kids too. Too bad he’s made of stone. *sigh* As our last place to visit for the day we walked out to Piazzale Michelangelo. It’s a park on the other side of the river at the top of a hill and has magnificent views of the city.

View of the Duomo from the top of the hill.
Unfortunately there were a few men that thought we’d like the view of themselves better… but quickly walking away seemed to get rid of them unless Mal yelled the obvious. lol On the way back to the hostel to warm up, rest up, and get some logistical things done we stopped for the world-famous Italian gelato. We had three different flavors and decided that it really is as good as people say.

And now we’re chillin’… or rather warmin’ in the hostel before some pasta for dinner. And tomorrow we’re heading out for Pisa. Since we have an extra day here and not enough to see in a whole day we thought taking the obligatory “I’m holding up the leaning tower of Pisa” photo-op would be fun.
Later that night… Interesting fact really quickly. Tonight at dinner we found this tiny little pizzeria near our hostel and while we were there an American woman came in. We asked her where she was from and why she’s in Italy. Turns out it’s a very Under the Tuscan Sun type story. She’s from Hawaii but she was working too much at her job there and didn’t like it, so she quit and came to Florence to teach English at her friend’s school for a year. How cool is that?
December 23rd, 2005So I went to the internet today to try and put all of this up, but of course I’m a complete idiot and forgot the connection cord for my camera making it impossible to put anything online. So now you all just get a million more things to read through Christmas. We went to Pisa today to see the leaning tower and guess what? It’s leaning. That’s all the town really has to offer though. The train ride wasn’t too long and when we got there we walked across town to the town in under half an hour and got to the plaza that has the tower and church and everything. Did anyone else not know there was a church there?

The obligatory holding up the tower pose. You end up looking like an idiot to take them, but I think it turned out pretty well.
Interesting fact about Pisa as well… it is nearly impossible to get a group picture in front of the tower. I’m not sure how this happened, but both tourists we asked to take a picture of us got nice pictures of us… but failed to include the tower. Pictures we tried to take of ourselves in front of the tower got random body parts, cut off faces, lots of sky, and very little tower. We also got some really good gelato and a walk through a very cute little market. Kim and I went out to see Florence at night this evening and had some more WAY overpriced gelato, but the city was really lit up with garlands and lights in the alleys and a Christmas tree in the main square and everything.
Ponte Vecchio in Florence at night all decorated for Christmas.
We have to get up at 5am tomorrow to catch a train to Rome so I’m gonna leave you all now. Have a great night!
December 25, 2005
Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noel, Feliz Navidad, Buon Natale and all that jazz everyone. Greetings from Rome, Italy where we are actually pretty miserable. Not really sure where to even start, but for those of you that are sick to death of reading all of this and want to throw something large and hopefully blunt at me let me sum it up quickly by saying never ever ever ever come to Rome. Now I’ll elaborate:
We got up at 5 am to get to Rome early because we wanted to make sure we were able to see the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel before they closed since they’re closed today (Christmas) and tomorrow for whatever reason. All was going well, we caught the train with plenty of time and were happily asleep until the train fame to a screeching halt in the middle of nowhere and we started to freeze to death because the train stopped. After a lot of hand motions, broken Italian, and very slow English we were able to determine that the train was broken down and we needed to go back and catch another train. This meant sitting in a train station for an hour and a half and then getting on a train that was already packed to overflowing. We ended up standing in the aisle for two hours on the entire train ride to Rome. We were separated, Kim and I on one side and Mallory and Jo in the car next to us. Let it suffice to say that each of our cars had rather interesting characters standing very close to us for two hours. By the time we got to Rome it was 11:32 and we’d been on a train for 5 hours. We found our hostel (on the 5th floor of a building) and waited to check in until we realized that the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel were closing in 20 minutes. We ran down all the stairs, ran to the Metro station, got on the train, literally full-on sprinted all the way to the museum (which included a very large flight of stairs) and found out we were 10 minutes late. All the way to Rome and we didn’t get to see the Sistine Chapel. So now we refer to it as “that place we’re not talking about”. We did get into Vatican City however and St. Peter’s Cathedral.
What an incredibly massive building!! The opulence, the marble, the sheer size of it all was truly amazing. We even climbed all 501 stairs to the top of the cupola to get a view of the cathedral from the top and a view of Rome from the top of the cupola. That was fantastic.

View inside the church from up around the top of the dome.

View of St. Peter's Square from the top of the cupola.

The four of us in front of St. Peter's Cathedral. (A few moments later the Aisan man who took this picture wanted a picture of us with his family.)
Then we decided it would be a most excellent idea to eat and we checked our guidebook for a good place. Unfortunately the restaurant took us to the cleaners. Lunch cost us our food budget for all of Rome, which was certainly not a pleasant experience, but it did force us to cook our own Christmas dinner here at the hostel with our newfound Australian friends, one of the perks of this leg of the trip.
Christmas Eve Kim, Jo, our Australian friends and I headed out for midnight mass. I’d found an english speaking cathedral so we headed there to take mass. Since neither Jo nor I are Catholic we thought it would be easier to understand if it was in English. But somehow the cathedral that has cards advertising it as “The home for all English-speaking Catholics in Rome” had mass entirely in Italian. A little frustrating since even the born and bred Catholics we were with didn’t totally understand what was going on. And the poor nun on the organ had absolutely no sense of rhythm. She kept changing the beats, making it completely impossible to sing along with my favorite Christmas carols, but Kim and Jo and I had already had a mini caroling in our hostel room, so I still got to sing Christmas carols. After mass we walked home through a lit and ringing Rome which was very cool indeed. Merry Christmas.
I’ll be home for Christmas, if only in my dreams.
Yesterday we were hoping for a better outlook since we’d since we’d had a good night’s sleep and it was Christmas after all. Rome didn’t have the same ideas. We expected things to be closed since it was a holiday, that wasn’t a big deal at all. But things that were supposed to be open to the public were closed… like the Roman Forum which was another big disappointment. And we walked forever and ever and ever and ended up getting lost 4 times. And there was no metro, so our plans to get back quickly were completely foiled. And all of the sights we saw, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, the Colosseum… none of them lived up to our expectations.
The four of us in front of the Colosseum
The Pantheon
Trevi Fountain (down)

Everything was a letdown. I don’t know if it was because these things were truly unimpressive, if we were all just in a foul mood, or if we had such grand romantic ideas of these sights of Rome that they could never live up to our expectations, but by the end of today we all decided that Rome sucks. Pardon the language… but that’s really the best word to describe it all. Don’t come to Rome. It smells like a truly offensive baby’s diaper, there are terrible beggars absolutely everywhere, people almost accost you trying to get you to buy things on the streets, it’s nearly impossible to navigate, people will and do rip you off for money at any opportunity, it doesn’t feel particularly safe at all, the crowds are bad even in the winter on Christmas day. Oh and did I mention the rain yet? Yes. No dreaming of a white Christmas for us. It rained all day… and not just a little. It absolutely POURED all day. And the temperature, while not as cold as some of the other cities we’ve been in, was cold enough to make it truly truly miserable. When we got back to the hostel every article of clothing we were all wearing was so drenched that it had to be hung up to dry and 8 hours later most of it is still wet. My passport and tour book… both of which were tucked securely inside my bag, next to my body are practically ruined they’re so wet. At the moment they’re on the top bunk under the heater trying to dry before we leave tomorrow. It was the worst Christmas EVER. Until we got back to the hostel, where we made our own fabulous Christmas dinner feast and watched movies and talked and hung out for hours upon hours. That made it feel almost like Christmas, but I still missed being home more than I thought I would. For not feeling like the holidays I really wished I was home. I don’t think I’ll be missing another Christmas with my family for a long time.
Tomorrow we’re off to the Cinque Terre, where we have our own apartment waiting for us in Riomaggiore. We had originally planned on taking a later train and getting to the town in time for dinner. Halfway through today we all decided that Rome was so horrendously awful that we’re taking one of the first trains out of Rome tomorrow morning. Lesson learned? We detest Rome. And this is coming from all four of us. I guarantee that neither Mal, Jo, Kim, nor I will EVER recommend Rome as a destination to anyone we truly care about.
The Cinque Terre should be a nice relaxing break and we have absolutely nothing planned for the entire time we’re there. Hopefully I will finally get to post this and all my pictures online… it’s starting to get ridiculous!! I hope everyone at home had a wonderful Christmas and is looking forward to New Years’! I get home in 15 days!!! Oh, and I got to talk to my family on the phone Christmas Eve and guess what?! They’re all coming to the airport to pick me up!!! That’s really exciting to me… whether or not I actually say it to them, I’ve missed them a lot this semester and it’ll be nice to be home. Well early to bed and early to rise to get the heck out of Rome and on to the best parts of this trip (read: back in France (Nice) in 3 days). Keep in touch with e-mail and comments everyone. Hope this wasn’t too much to read… and congratulations if you really did read all the way down to here. You deserve a medal or something when I get home. laters!