Other than a random streak of bad luck that seemed to culminate (and yet still continue) on this trip it did have some high points. Both cities are quite beautiful and I think that losing my camera is as good an excuse as any to go back at some future date. But let's start at the beginning:
I arrived in Prague on Saturday night and had previously arranged for transportation to pick me up and take me to the hostel. To say the Clown and Bard in Prague is "shady" is giving it a compliment. Granted, I chose to stay in the large dorm on the 9th floor, but nothing about this hostel gives you a warm, fuzzy, or particularly safe feeling. I did meet a nice pair of girls traveling and managed to meet up with them later. Sunday I went out and toured the main square first. Prague is a lucky city because it wasn't extensively damaged in either of the World Wars and thus maintains some medieval charm. It is interesting to see the main square, where centuries of architectural styles converge. The three main points of the square are the Town Hall Tower, with an astronomical clock that rings on the hour (not nearly as impressively as Strasbourg's), Tyn Church, and the statue in the middle that represents the Czechs. Overall a very nice square, but it's the tourist hotspot which means it's hard to navigate and expensive.
Tourists are almost a plague upon Prague. I was there on a Sunday when it was raining and fairly cold and there were still more tourists than I've ever seen. I can only really compare it to the Louvre, except this is a city, not a museum.Just past the main square is Charles' Bridge. A fabulously beautiful bridge with towers at either end, it's lined by statues of saints and martyrs... and locals selling things or playing music for money. Again, very touristy, but actually a rather nice walk.
After walking across the bridge I went to Prague's famous Jewish Quarter, which was once Europe's largest but was decimated by the Nazis in WWII. Four synagogues and a very moving cemetery remain, but Prague's Jewish population never recovered. It was a very moving experience and one that anyone who goes to Prague MUST do.
That evening I met the girls from the hostel for a fabulous cafeteria-style vegetarian dinner at a restaurant recommended by none other than Rick Steves. Afterwards I tagged along to the theater and managed to get a ticket for 100 czech crown. That's about 4euro (and what's the US exhange rate up to? would it be 1000 US$ yet? lol). I wasn't sure what to expect, but what I got was an original Czech musical based on the life of Elizatbeth Bathory, who was convicted of murdering at least 80 young girls to bathe in their blood, as she thought it would keep her younger. The entire musical was in Czech, but it was easy enough to follow along and we all quite enjoyed it.Monday I visited the Museum of Communism. Interesting to see what life was really like for those behind the Iron Curtain. Of all the new things I learned it shocked me most that the average life span shot up about 5 years when the Communists left the Czech Republic. Not because of dissapearances or anything but because of toxic materials. The Soviets were so into industrialization that they wanted it to come at any price. The run off from their projects meant that the average citizen consumed 5x the lethal amount of the course of their lives. Crazy!
Then it was off to Castle Hill where I toured the mostly-closed castle. 
The positive there was that they opened the cathedral for free. I especially like the stained glass window made by Alfons Mucha and even went to the museum dedicated to him afterwards to enjoy his art more.
Then I returned to the hostel to gather my things and went to the ominous train station to begin that fateful journey. And that was Prague! More on the second leg of my trip later!
3 comments:
Sorry to hear about your camera, I seem to recall a friend who had the same thing happen! :(
I so want to see Prague! I've wanted to go there so badly ever since I moved to France, and I still haven't.
I'll take lots of pics in Budapest next week for you!
Looking across the sea of domes, spires and red roofs towards the graceful towers of the St. Vitus cathedral, I think I've just fallen hopelessly in love with Prague. In the short time since the Velvet Revolution and the fall of Communism, Prague has become one of the premiere destinations in Europe. What stands out most here is the architecture, so diverse, so beautiful, and so concentrated in one place that you can easily be overwhelmed. But unlike other top cities in Europe, Prague doesn't strike you as shrewd, calculating, or out to get your money, cheap Prague hotels and restaurants are at good value. There is still certain innocence, something that does much to relieve the occasional annoyance. Of course Prague is overrun with tourists, who like you are eager to explore its charms. But there are ways to beat the crowds or avoid them altogether, and there are still many places off the beaten paths awaiting discovery.
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